Heights and Depths (of the boat)

Until today we had not taken time to explore all areas of the ship, especially the high aft decks.  We discovered an oasis of cool and calm in the Ellington: by night a bar/night club, by day a great spot to engage in quiet pastimes, such as blogging, reading, knitting  and people-watching – all four of these in my top ten list of things to do when it’s too hot to be outside.  Ellingtons is perched on the 14^th floor, high above the main pool deck.  I have just witnessed the belly-flop competition from a vantage point that did not involve close proximity to the great unwashed, partly-drunk and/or scantily-clad! Now Brazilian dancing is taking place – looks a lot like various version of the Electric Slide and other line dancing to me!

Today was the day when the Israeli immigration officers came on board to ensure that every single guest on board (they planned to go ashore or not in Israel) presented themselves , passport in hand, before the Israeli passport control desks that were set up in the main dining room today. It was a slick operation, and we are now in receipt of our passports and duly stamped boarding cards, in readiness for our shore trips tomorrow and Wednesday.

We were advised that the ice –show (yes, there is an ice rink down in the depths of this floating hotel) is a must-see, so had gotten tickets for the 5 o’clock show. It was really good!

Not much else to report on this day-at-sea. Still no lobster.

Holy Land coming next.

Temples, priests and villas

Our driver today was another middle aged man, whose knowledge about the history of his country was excellent, as was his English, although he had never studied English at any time in his life.  It was an extremely hot day, so being in an air-conditioned cab was far preferable to being on a coach with 50+ close friends.  We disembarked a little earlier than our appointed pick-up time, to be faced with a veritable barrage of taxi drivers hungry for business.  It would have been very easy to have been sucked up by one of these enthusiastic gentlemen, but we politely, firmly and frequently refused their advances until the driver with the sign appeared.

The Acropolis was our first stop.  Knowing how steep the climb to the Parthenon was, and having read that, thanks to the EU, there was an elevator available for disabled guests, we asked the driver if he knew where the drop-off was for these facilities.  He did, but asked us if he had paperwork or a wheelchair to prove G’pa needed the assistance.  We had neither, so Theo proposed he would intercede on g’pa’s behalf, and that he did.  We did have a little bit of trekking round the south face to reach the elevator, but no stairs at least, and we all three rode up the outside of the south wall of the Acropolis in grand style – a cage-like elevator, the likes of which you might see in a building site.

The appropriateness of such a ride up was only fully revealed when the cranes and scaffolding surrounding the Parthenon and other Acropolis buildings came into view.  The traps were gone from the 1980s but restoration is apparently an ongoing phenomenon.

Fellow travelers take note; the entry ticket for the Acropolis also gives you entry to another 6 historical sites (but not the Olympic Stadium). We did not have time to do all of them but we did visit the Temple and Amphitheater of Dionysus, and the Temple of Zeus, before lunching in the Plaka. 

Differences we noted from the 1980s were both positive and negative. On the positive side, historical and archeological sites were better interpreted through site-based signs with English translations, and the antiquities themselves were more protected from tourist “erosion” through more limited direct access by the roping off of certain areas.  Negatively, the tourist-ization (my word I think) through, for example, a Disney-like train running tourists painlessly around sites, and the ubiquitous street hawkers selling knock-offs of watches, handbags, luggage, sunglasses etc., was quite disturbing. There appeared also to be many more street peddlers selling clothing, furniture, household goods, most of which looked to be a least secondhand. This may be simply a function of the dire economic situation in Greece at the moment, or manifestation of the influx of foreign nationals into Greece from Eastern Europe, China and various African and Middle Eastern countries, but it was noticeable at many crossroads and along many streets away from the tourist areas.

Our driver was skeptical about the economy and the foreigners.  He explained that his 29 year-old son had been in the Greek military , but due to two recent pay-cuts, one of 42% and the other a further 15%, he was now out of the Serviced and seeking civilian employment.  He further explained that he believed unemployment to be running at 50%+ in the capital’s greater metro area, rather than the much lower rate publicized by the government.  When we rounded a corner to view the Parliament building, he asked us did we know what that building was.  When we replied the parliament building, he smiled and corrected us, “No it’s the building of the Greek mafia!”

We did not divulge that Jim was a minister, because we discovered one other thing that had not changed in 30 years – the Greek man-in-the-street’s attitude toward the clergy. We came across exactly the same sentiment in Crete in 1985.  Greek Orthodox priests are generally regarded, it seems, as those who continually ask for money, ostensibly for the upkeep of their churches, but in reality to build themselves costly villas on the coast or in the mountains.  As the owners (with the bank, of course) of a cabin in the mountains of Montreat, we decided to remain silent on the subject of what Jim does for a living.

Back at the ship, we lounged around at the pool, before a dinner at which we were entertained by the spectacle of the 150+ wait staff chorus singing “O Sole Mio” in honor of it being Italian menu night.

  

Day-at-sea # 2 tomorrow, as we head toward Eretz Israel.

Speedos, thongs and posing pouches

Today was our first day-at-sea day, which means that the pools and sundecks are crowded.  Since we have so many Europeans on board there were many men sporting speedos and other tiny bathing attire, at the pool, in the elevators, and elsewhere around the boat. It also means that the Germans have been up since 5am reserving sunbeds in prime spots by laying their towels on them. I did not indulge in any picture-taking, fearing the censors cut, or German Blitzkrieg!

It was somewhat of a relief to find everyone gussied-up for the formal night later.  Some people clean up real good!

Nothing much of note happened today. Jim did not win the afternoon Trivia (on famous lines from movies).  Lobster was not on the formal night menu.  We did not stay for the whole show after dinner – even g’pa, who particularly wanted to see the dancing girls!  It was midnight by then though, so no shame in going to bed.

By the time we awake, we’ll be docked at Pireus, the port of Athens.  We have a driver booked again, and very strict instructions about not getting into a taxi with anyone who doesn’t have a “Jim Simpson” sign in his hands.  In true classical style, we will also beware Greeks bringing gifts. The day sounds like it could be fun.

Jim and I have not been in Athens since 1984, so it will be interesting to see what havoc being an EU member has wrought on the once mighty Greeks. I’ll report on that in the next blog.

Of Motherwell, and Alloa, and Sorrento and Rome (with apologies to Lewis Carroll)

Greetings from Rhodes, Greece, where I will attempt to get caught up a bit 

Talk about co-incidences! Our driver in Naples, Francisco, a man in his mid-50s, had spent twenty years living in Alloa (near Stirling), working at Gleneagles, playing snooker in Motherwell, and rally driving around Scotland.  Of course he spoke excellent English, albeit still with a heavy Italian accent.  He now lives back in Sorrento from whence he had come to Scotland, and he had a dislike of Rome that can only be likened to Glasgow’s attitude about Edinburgh.  As well as providing excellent commentary about places we visited with him, he told us, in no uncertain terms that the coffee in Rome was like “brown water” because being a barista, and being able to blend, grind and brew coffee according to the barometric pressure on any given day (barista being from barometric, not bar), was not something Romans had accomplished.  On the contrary, in Naples, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, they had gotten that all down pat many, many years ago.

He was quite the philosopher, and, as it happens, comedian and philanderer.  You should have seen his face, when, almost half-way into our 7 and ½ hour trip, he found out that Jim was a “priest”.  But more of that later.

First Pompeii.  When Vesuvio emerged out of the early morning mist at 7 o’clock this morning, towering over the Bay of Naples, it appeared docile except for the gaping crater created by the eruption of 79AD.  For years I’ve been quite fascinated by the pictures in history books of mosaics of barking dogs and plaster casts of those taken suddenly by Vesuvio’s blast.

I was not disappointed when I later saw these at Pompeii.  Like many before me, and, no doubt, many after me, I was not prepared for the vastness of the excavated site, the richness and completeness of the remaining frescoes, the beauty of the bath house, the still-visible ruts in the pavement left by passing chariots. We stayed about an hour and a half – g’pa did not find the climb to the entrance or the initial cobbled streets easy to walk on, and chose to sit at an ancient crossroads in the shade until Jim and I finished our stroll through the past.

Next was an incredibly beautiful drive along the Amalfi coast to Positano, with stops en route to take pictures at vantage points known by our native driver, who took us to a most excellent family-run Trattoria way up on the mountain above the town.  Not only was the view here spectacular, the food was also.

Words cannot it do it justice, but everything was cooked by mama using home-produced organic vegetables and home-made pasta, sauces and desserts.  The wine served with this prix fixe lunch was also made on the premises, and I suspect the limoncello that came with the desserts was too. Having heard extolled the digestive virtues of well-brewed expresso, it was difficult to refuse a cup at the end of the meal.  Tutti molto bene!  By yet another strange co-incidence, the 40-something couple and two teenage girls bedecked in wedding attire, who appeared at the restaurant (some 65 kilometers from the boat and not on the tour-bus tourist route), turned out to be a family from Texas, who were on the same cruise as us.  The couple were renewing their wedding vows as part of their 25^th wedding anniversary celebrations.  Very romantic – male readers, take note!!  This was when the philanderer side of our driver came out.  He was interested in all three females, and requested kisses.  Afterward he commented that the mother was especially attractive to him because of her big bazoombas (his word).  I swear, I could have given her a real run for her money!! 

 

After lunch were drove down the steep, winding, and very narrow road to the town itself and spent a delightful 45 mins wandering around its equally steep, winding, narrow and tourist-filled streets before heading back to Napoli and the boat.  It was during this part of the journey that the rally driver comedian side of our driver became apparent.  By this time, he knew Jim was a “priest” so he offered a number of jokes that might be suitable for a sermon.  Perhaps some of you will hear some of them, so there will be no spoiler here!

Tomorrow will be a day at sea as we head through the Straits of Messina toward Pireaus.  Given the many Europeans on our ship, I already have the next blog title in mind, but you’ll have to wait for that too.

Arrivederci Roma

I am sitting on the balcony of our cabin, watching the coast of Civitavecchia recede.  By a pretty amazing co-incidence, the waiter who served us our gins and tonic just before we set sail was from Kochi, Kerala, where young Jim is currently situated for his second-to-last retreat at the house of Thomas John.  What a very small world it is, after all!

Our taxi ride from Rome to its port was interesting. Roman drivers, including ours, are crazy. The first 15-30 minutes of our ride (through heavy and noisy morning rush-hour Rome in the black Mercedes, was with all four windows down (well three windows down actually, because as soon as the driver put them down, I put mine immediately back up).  It was like riding in a noisy, polluted wind tunnel!  I huffed and puffed enough for him eventual to put up all windows and explain how the AC would work.  WE then wove in and out of traffic, in itself not too scary, but made terrifying by the constant reading of texts and emails on his smart phone, and the number of calls he took, details of which he wrote down in his calendar while still driving, sometimes with no hands on the wheel.

Despite all of this, we got to the boat safely, and were fast-track wheel-chair assisted through check in right to a prime table for luncheon.  We even had all of our luggage delivered to our state-room 4 hours before we set sail!!  No more Carnival Cruises for me J

Our fellow cruisers are multi-national, but with a British (mostly English) contingent.  We shall see how that works out.  Our dinner–table companions are a family from LA: mom is a 4^th grade gifted and talented teacher; 10 year old daughter is a little precocious, but she does keep the conversation going at dinner; dad who is extremely knowledgeable about art, and has previously been all over Europe multiple times: and son, rising 9^th grader, who was quiet during the meal, but had a mischievous smile.

Tomorrow we’ll be picked up at 9am by a driver who’ll take us to Pompeii, followed by a drive up the Amalfi coast

PS I am trying to post this from Haifa, Israel, hence the strange lay out. All instructions are in Hebrew too so I am not going to attempt to upload photos for now. I'll work on it tomorrow., and on uploading the other "missing " blogs. 

Nuns, electric buses and other miscellany

I had always imagined that Rome would be full of whatever-the-collective-noun-is for nuns.  I have thus far been sadly disappointed.   There has been the odd single nun here and there, but even at the Vatican, where I was sure there’d be many of them, not a sign.  The only time there was a sighting was when I was standing at a bus stop in a thunderstorm, holding an umbrella, and unable to get out my camera in time to provide photographic evidence of them crossing the road en masse and going into the subway at the Colosseum.

Update: according to http://users.tinyonline.co.uk/gswithenbank/collnoun.htm#People it’s a superfluity of nuns.  A little cruel, don’t you think?

BTW there are many Segway tours in Rome.  I have decided that the collective noun for this phenomenon should be a nerd of Segway riders!

Today we attempted to cover the few must-sees left.  This involved another use of the three-day pass; this time on the underground. What a godsend it was, because a disabled elevator at the Spanish Steps station allowed g’pa to be at the top of Spanish Steps for a while, then at the bottom, without having to navigate a single Spanish Step! Incidentally on the bus that took us to the subway station, an elderly nun gave up her seat to allow G’pa to sit down!

Next was the Trevi fountain. The bus ride there can best be described as crowded.  Regular buses in Rome can carry either 95 or 114 passengers, depending on their size – and let me assure you I’ve been in both sizes with at least the maximum amount of people! This bus was of the midget, electronic variety.  I never did see the notice stating how many people can be on this type of bus, but I swear there were about 50 in a space equivalent to a small ½ bathroom!

This experience was quickly followed by a Bataan death march through cobbled streets to reach the renowned Trevi fountain.  I truly thought G’pa was going to expire, but a pint and a panini at a little café on the way made all the diference.  The other thing that really lifted his flagging spirits was that, in the café, we met a man from NY who had been born in Motherwell!  He was an elderly man who was in Rome on a day trip from a cruise ship.  He was with relatives from Wishaw, which is very close to Motherwell.

I must confess that I was seriously underwhelmed by the Trevi fountain experience.  Don’t get me wrong – it’s beautiful, but it was a lot like being in a Disney theme park, as the photo might suggest!!

It was then back to apartment, since g’pa needed a nap.  Jim and I hit the road again, spending a good bit of time in the Hebraica museum in the Jewish Ghetto, because our intended visit to one of the huge Jesuit churches that was built as part of the counter-Reformation was closed for an extended (3 hour) lunch break. The synagogue and museum were not only fascinating, but one of the best little museums I’ve been in in a while.

To end my miscellany for today, I need to report that on the walk back to the apartment, we happened upon some sort of movie set in a square close to where we’ve been living these past few days.

I’m not quite sure when I’ll next be able to post, because I will NOT be purchasing internet time on the cruise ship, but I’ll get back to y’all as soon as I’m able.

Eternal City

Tuesday 6/14/11

The Sistine Chapel, and especially the finger of God touching the finger of Adam, giving him life, made me weep.  How exquisite!  Perhaps even more than the ancient ruins, this iconic image encapsulated the idea of the Eternal City for me.  Of course, no photos can be taken in the Chapel but I know you know exactly what it looks like.  The eclectic collection of 100+ photos that I took elsewhere in the Vatican Museum will not be shared in any blog, but some of you at least, may see them, and hear what it was about certain pieces of art that caught my attention.  Remember to ask me about "laser Jesus".

Since we had bought our tickets to the Vatican Museum online, we were able to by-pass the line.  Even before 9 o’clock in the morning, the opening time for the museum, there was a LONG line.

We had read that wheel chairs could be “borrowed” inside, and apart from the convenience of being able to “go against the flow” on the route for visitors with disabilities, we were grateful because g’pa couldn’t possibly have walked for 6 hours – the amount of time we were in the Museum and later St. Peter’s Basilica.  

We laughed when, at one point, I rolled him up to an open window on the second floor with the dire warning NOT to wave at the crowd lest they think the pope was the one waving!

We enjoyed a very late lunch close to the Piazza Navona.  The pesto pasta was delicious, as you can hopefully see.

A shortish stroll around streets that looked more like I had imagined Rome would be like, took us to the Pantheon, a former pagan shrine, built in the time of Augustine.  The amazing thing about this ancient structure is that until the 1960s, it was the largest dome in the world – its height and circumference being the same.  Recently (in the 1700s) it was consecrated as a Christian church, which it is still today.

Having been on our feet for 10 hours today, we are pooped!   Dinner will be take-out pizza, and not a few glasses of vino.

To be continued...